A Travellerspoint blog

Turkey

The Leftovers...

We caught our second overnight bus from Cappadocia to Antalya just in time to join a full day tour. It could have something to do with us being tired and hungry (we don't do well at skipping meals) but it is fair to say that we were underwhelmed by our tour of Antalya. It also could have had something to do with our guide's parrot-fashion regurgitation of facts and dates, and his constant diatribe's on the virtues of of the region.

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The awesome Aspendos theatre

All grizzling aside, Anatalya is the start of the so-called “Turkish Rivieria” and is very pretty. We spent the morning visiting the ruins at Perge, the spectacular Aspendos Theatre, and the temples of Athena and Apollo at the former fishing village turned German resort town of Side. One of the temples has now been converted into a bar – classy!

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Spice Market at Side

By far the best part of the day was wandering around the kale ici (old town) area and finding ourselves at the fantastic Castle Restaurant, with views over the bay, chowing into a traditional Ottoman mixed grill – easily the best food we have had in Turkey so far!

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Here's a company probably not destined for globalisation - at least, not in the English speaking world...

The next day we travelled to Olympos to stay in the Bayram Tree Houses – a true Hippie Hilton built in and around the trees in the valley. The cove at Olympos used to be Red Beard's hideout and there are some amazing ruins around the beach including the tomb of Marcus Aurelius (unfortunately not the guy from Gladiator).

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The Bayrams Tree Houses

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Late that night we took a side trip up the hill to see the Chimera flames where natural gas burns as it escapes from underneath the rocks. The flames have been burning constantly for thousands of years and no one really knows why.

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The next day we checked out and joined our yacht cruise. There being no port at Olympos we had to endure a white knuckle drive to Demre, about an hour and a half away. The driver threw his minibus around the winding coastal road like a stolen WRX – It would have been quite picturesque if we had not been staring straight ahead trying not to vomit. When we eventually got to Demre we were both looking a little green...

There were a total of nine passengers on the boat: Five kiwis; three Aussies; and one American. It was the first time during our trip around Turkey that the Kiwis outnumbered the Aussies... The boat was crewed by Captain Kaan and his first mate/chef/ship's boy, Mustafa, who suffered from a very serious case of Bieber-fever...

Amusingly, the choice of red wine stocked by the cruise company was called Dikmen, which was (surprisingly) quite drinkable. You can imagine the hilarity that ensued:
“Hey bro, you want some Dikmen?”
“Yes please”
Everybody points and laughs... Never gets old.

We spent a total of four days/three nights on the boat and enjoyed every second of it – except for Mustafa's singing. Kent, you would have been impressed; Eve didn't wuss out and swam/snorkled every day!

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Our first stop on the cruise - an old fishing village only accessible by boat (I forget the name)

The first day we saw the sunken city, or rather we saw where the sunken city sank... That night we dropped anchor in a little cove and took a fizz boat to the Smuggler's Inn for a rum party, where we were the life of the party i.e. the only people there... Eve had a public liability shudder when one of our compatriots put her foot through a floor board during a fit of what might loosely be described as dancing (we were all just as bad); and the staff ingeniously decided that a large cushion over the hole was the way to go... We left pretty soon afterwards so we didn't see how that turned out.

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The marina at Kas

The second day was pretty rough and Rob inherited the title of Spewboy, at the same time learning that hangovers and rough seas do not mix. The next two days were spend cruising leisurely around the Mediterranean coast of Turkey, punctuated with frequent stops for eating, swimming and general bouts of laziness.

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Large table + dishwashing liquid = WATERSLIDE!

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These industrious Turks have a little gozleme kitchen in their boat...

When we arrived in Fethiye the other three Kiwis joined us at the same hostel which led to a few more outrageous antics over the next couple of days...

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Our picnic on a hill overlooking Fethiye

Moving on from Fethiye, we caught a bus to Pamukkale to check out the white calcium terraces and the ruins of Hieropolis, which included some pretty well preserved tombs. The terraces looked like a dirty ski field from a distance, but were beautiful up close and are apparently a fair example of what NZ's pink and white terraces would have looked like before they were blown up... As our tour guide said: “Bad for NZ; good for us.”

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The Hieropolis ruins on the hill behind the terraces

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The last stop on our Turkish itinerary was Kusadasi, a rather bleak resort town that probably owes its popularity more to its proximity to the ruins of Ephesus than anything else... Our hotel was a run down 4-star (maybe 10 years ago) that needed a major makeover. The exterior was painted awful shades of pink and green, which should give you an idea of the interior design. They also charged 5-star prices which was annoying, especially considering the thinly veiled threat to charge hotel prices for any food or drinks bought onto the premises. We had the last laugh there; smuggling several bottles of grog and lots of cheap water into our room, hiding it in our bags during the day and leaving it in the bathroom when we checked out... Mwahahaha! Before you ask: No, the hotel did not have an imprint of our credit card...

Ephesus was amazing and is still undergoing major reconstruction and restoration. Words can't really do it justice so here are some of the photos...

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A relief depicting Nike the Greek goddess of victory - you can see where the shoe company got the idea for the "swoosh" logo...

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The facade of the Library of Celcus at Ephesus

Turkey is an incredible country and, on reflection, we have spent a little over three weeks touring around the place and still have not seen anywhere near everything the country has to offer! Having said that, we are starting to get a little bit tired of ruins, which is probably not a good thing with Athens and Rome on the horizon...

Posted by RobandEve 02:02 Archived in Turkey Comments (2)

Cappadocia

Apparently means the "land of horses", not that we saw any...

We said our goodbyes to Spewboy at the bus station in Nevsehir before catching a free shuttle to Urgup to join our tour. Eve read about Cappadocia on the internet a couple of years ago and decided then that we would go there whenever we got around to travelling to Turkey. Cappadocia is famous for two things; spectacular natural scenery, and the appetisingly named Testi kebab...

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Artist's impression of a Testi kebab

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Actual photo of Testi, or pottery kebab. The pot is bought to the table and smashed open with a small hammer.

The first day tour saw us walking through several valleys known for their unique rock formations, known as "fairy chimneys" because of a local myth. We also went to the Goreme museum which is a large Byzantine school complex built entirely into a cliff face and surrounding rocks.

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Not looking too bad having just come out the other side of an overnight bus trip...

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The view from inside one of the rock-cut churches at the Goreme museum

We also endured the obligitory trips to local textile manufacturers, who unsuccessfully plied us with apple tea in the hope we would blow our budget on their handicrafts... They would have had better luck taking us to one of the regions many vineyards!

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Goreme town

Prior to arriving in Turkey, it had been suggested to us to book through a tour agency due to the time of year (the start of their spring high season) as the prices suddenly skyrocket and everything starts being quoted in Euros despite Turkey not actually being a member of the EU (something about Cyprus...) It was also suggested that tour companies are able to secure much better deals, especially for accommodation, than if you just walk in off the street. We decided that, based on our assessment of accomodation prices around Anzac Day, we would book through a tour agency to avoid any hassles... Can anyone see where this is going??

After the tour we were dropped outside a ramshackle old building. The sign outside suggested that it was a hotel; but we weren't convinced. The guide informed us that this was our hotel for the night... Of course, it wasn't and despite Rob producing a voucher with the name of the hotel we were supposed to be booked at, the guide was unobliging. He told us that there was a "problem" with our cave hotel, and that the (sub-contracted) local tour company had booked us at this hotel instead.

Needless to say, the rooms were rubbish, and not in a cave as specifically requested when we booked the tour. We demanded to be dropped off at the tour company office to sort it out. After some discussions with the "big boss" at Agra Tours, we became suspicious that he was trying to increase his margin by feeding us some bollocks about our hotel and palming us off somewhere cheaper. Eventually, after we explained that a cave room was one of the main reasons we came to Cappadocia, he agreed to find us a cave room at a cave hotel.

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After a while he decided to send us to a place called the "Shoestring Cave Hotel". We were reluctant to go at first, given the name of the place, but he said that he had managed to secure us a deluxe cave room, paritable with the room we should have been booked at. And so off we went...

When we arrived we were shown to our room which was still not a cave room and looked as though it was still under construction. We were pretty pissed off at this point and now completely convinced that the Agra Tours guy was on the take. We borrowed a phone and called: a) the hotel that we should have been staying at – confirming our suspicion that there were no problems with any of their rooms; and b) the guy who arranged the tour in Istanbul, who sounded about as pissed off as we were...

Half an hour later, we were checked in to an awesome cave room at a cave hotel. After we had dropped our bags off we went for a walk through Goreme, shared a testi kebab and a few drinks to help us wind down after a stressful afternoon.

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Our room

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The Village Cave Hotel

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The view from our balcony at night

On the second day tour we walked through the Rose Valley and visited one of the regions many underground cities which was a highlight. Unfortunately the poor lighting prevented us from getting any decent photos of the underground city, so here's the obligitory photo of a donkey instead.

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Afterwards we were dropped at the pub with a couple of Kiwi girls from the tour, who were waiting for their overnight bus to Pamukkale. We spent a very laid back evening sitting on bean bags at the pub with some drinks and nibbles. The saying "smoke like a Turk" is not an unfair stereotype – apart from the fact that almost all Turks seem to smoke like chimneys, at a lot of pubs/restaurants you can have them bring out a nargile water pipe with flavoured tobacco (you say water pipe; I say bong), often the pipe is free with a meal. This guy was sitting near us and looked like he was enjoying the moment.

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As we were staring down the barrel of another overnight bus, we spent our third day in Cappadocia walking around the town centre. We have had some epic backgammon matches over the past couple of weeks and although the win-loss record is slowly balancing, Eve still has a few more wins to her name...

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On our walkabout we came across a random turtle on a hill just outside of town. After contemplating the obvious question we sat down and took some photos...

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Cappadocia was amazing - despite the dispute over the accommodation and a minor disagreement over what the turtle's name should be: Eve thought Dove (as in Turtle Dove); Rob preferred Wax (well, you get the idea). We could have stayed longer as there was plenty to see and do, but we are looking forward to our yacht cruise from Olympos to Fethiye...

Posted by RobandEve 10:37 Archived in Turkey Comments (2)

Istanbul

If you don't love Turkey; you're a turkey...

We spend a total of six days in Istanbul; three before heading south for Anzac Day, and three after. We can confidently say that it was absolutely the best city we have seen thus far on our travels. As we are coming into the northern Spring, the city was in bloom with tulips (the national flower) and the tantalising smell of roasted chestnuts and sweetcorn on every corner was amazing. We stayed in Sultanahmet, the heart of the old city, for the entire six nights and only really ventured outside the old city walls to catch our bus to Canakkale, and to duck across the Bosphorus River to the Asian side of Istanbul to check out a highly recommended restaurant (not a bad effort that, two continents in one day).

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The main strip in Sultanahmet

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The Sultanahmet market

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The Eminonu wharf (near the Spice Market)

Most of the major sights and attractions in Istanbul are either in Sultanahmet or nearby. In the first three days we checked out the massive Blue Mosque, the even massiver Hagia Sophia, the Grand Bazaar (we ended up going back at least four times...), and the Spice Market.

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The Blue Mosque

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Hagia Sophia

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The Spice Market was absolutely buzzing!

Next to the Blue Mosque we also found the matching obelisk from the one at Karnak temple...

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Our biggest accomplishment (well Rob's really...) in the first three days was to become the proud owners of our first Turkish carpet. The free apple tea that they ply you with does little to soften the experience, which Eve in particular found very stressful. But after three days, four carpet galleries, gallons of apple tea, and six hours of bartering we finally got our hands on the perfect rug – well almost perfect; we still can't figure out how to make it fly...

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Now we just have to find a house to match it!

In the three or four days before Anzac Day, Sultanahmet becomes Little Australia – I would say Little NZ as well, but let's face it; NZ was little to begin with... Everywhere you look up and down the main street, is Aussies and Kiwis enjoying the hospitality (in some cases a bit too much...) Anzac Day this year was a dry event as we're lead to believe that a couple of years ago some irresponsible types (both Kiwis and Australians were implicated) turned up to Anzac Cove with chilly bins (that's eskies in Australian) full of whateveryoulike, and ended up rioting in Canakkale later that night.

After Anzac Day we returned to Sultanahmet and were pleased to find it much quieter as most of the large tour groups had moved on. We traded up from the backpackers we were in before and had a fantastic time at Hotel Empress Zoe where Sophie, one of the house cats, had us wrapped around her little paws in no time..

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We spent the last three days going backwards and forwards between our hotel and the Grand Bazaar – it took five days before we were brave enough to engage in any serious bartering. We found some pretty cool stuff and now Eve is insipred to create a Turkish themed room in our, as yet, non-existant house... We spent the last day in Istanbul figuring out how to post our loot home. We also braved the huge queues to get inside the Haiga Sophia which did not dissapoint, and spent a fair bit of time searching for the perfect kofte and lachmacun (LAK-mah-joon), a type of Turkish pizza.

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The ceiling of the Hagia Sophia

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Both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires used the Hagia Sophia as a place of worship which is evident in the mixture of Christian and Muslim artwork...

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The view from the Hagia Sophia back towards the Blue Mosque

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One of the frescos inside the Hagia Sophia - The figure on the right is Empress Zoe (a pretty interesting character - well worth a Google)

Our last afternoon in Istanbul was spent watching the Royal Wedding at a hostel in Sultanahmet (Eve watched the wedding, Rob drank beer and sulked). As our time in Istanbul was ticking away, we grabbed a quick bite to eat and headed to the tour office to meet our shuttle service.

Our transfer to the main bus station was almost an hour late and we nearly missed our bus to Cappadocia. Despite the late transfer being the bus company's fault, we received a fairly hostile reception from the bus staff, so we were off to a great start. To make matters worse, not one hour into the 12 hour bus trip the young fella in the seat across from us decided it was a good time to barf all over himself (think Team America), much to our delight... After the staff squeegied his lunch off the floor, he spent the rest of the trip spitting into a bag which really added to the ambience.

Despite Spewboy's efforts, we were very sorry to leave Istanbul; six days did not feel like long enough. It is the type of foreign city we could definately see ourselves living in.

Posted by RobandEve 07:45 Archived in Turkey Comments (2)

Gallipoli

ANZAC Day 2011

We arrived in Canakkale after a five and a half hour bus trip from Istanbul, lobbed at our hotel, and after some initial confusion were given a key and sent off to our room. No sooner had we taken our packs off, there was a knock at the door.

"Sir, there is a problem with your reservation."
"OK, what kind of problem?"
"You don't have a reservation..."

Excellent! As it turned out, our booking more than a month in advance did not help us one bit – the other Kiwi couple we met on the bus checked in for their reservation without any problems having only made it the week before. That'll teach us for being organised.

After some "discussions" with the manager, the travel agent, and an unhelpful old lady sitting in a corner, the group conluded that we did, in fact, have a reservation, however somebody along the way had decided not to tell the hotel. It was decided that Rob should go back to the room and relax (yeah, right) while it was sorted out. To the best of our understanding, "sorted out" means shout at each other for half an hour or so.

Once it was FINALLY sorted out we walked down to the waterfront to check out what Canakkale had to offer. A $4 cheeseburger, a few drinks, and three games of backgammon (Rob got owned) later and we finally started to relax.

The next morning we took a quick side trip to Troy, 35km south of Canakkale. The city is now in complete ruins (as to be expected, I guess) but it is overgrown and a bit underwhelming... Nowhere near as romantic as the story (Paris was such an Emo) but it was good for a walk.

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There is a big wooden horse at Troy but it has a big house on it and windows, which would have kind of defeated the purpose... Here is a photo all the same:

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Not fit for purpose – the wooden horse at Troy.

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The wooden horse from the movie (above) was much more convincing but that is at Canakkale, nowhere near Troy.

After Troy we returned to Canakkale to pick up some supplies to make sure we survived our Anzac tour (i.e. Eve bought copious amounts of chocolate). We clothed ourselves with every piece of Icebreaker we owned (in Eve's case, quite a lot) and joined the tour gruop at the Anzac hotel. After some quick introductions (it was good to hear some good old Kiwi accents amoungst the group) we jumped on the bus and headed for the ferry to the Gallipoli Peninsula. By 9.00pm we arrived at Anzac Cove and found our way to some stadium seating (the fanatics having scored all the lay down spots when the gates opened at six).

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The seals

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The crowds were huge - we heard that there was around 20 thousand!!

Thus began one of the longest, coldest nights we have ever experienced. Wearing all our clothes, plus a large woollen rug it is hard to imagine how the Anzacs managed to get through nights like this in only summer uniforms (not to mention some blokes shooting at you from up the hill...)

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It was an absolutely surreal experience sitting at Anzac Cove thinking that 96 years ago a bunch of Kiwis and Aussies jumped off a boat and stormed the very beach we were sitting on, running headlong into an eight month shitfight where a good number of them would be slaughtered.

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The first light of dawn behind the "Gallipoli Sphinx" which overlooks Anzac Cove

The Dawn Service began at the first sliver of daylight and provided a welcome opportunity to shake the chill out of our extremities. The service was solemn and very moving. Afterwards we spent our morning hiking the seven and a half kilometres up to the NZ Memorial, at the summit of Chunuk Bair, to watch the New Zealand service. On our way we walked through a lot of cemetaries including Ari Burnu, the Beach cemetary, Shell Green, the Lone Pine cemetary and Australian Memorial, Quinn's Post, the Turkish 57th Regiment Memorial, and the Nek cemetary.

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At Ari Burnu (Anzac Cove) cemetary

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Quinns Post

Of particular interest, were the 57th Regiment Memorial and the Nek. The 57th Regiment were famously ordered by Mustafa Kamal (Ataturk) "not to attack, but to die. In the time it takes us to die, others forces and commanders can come and take our place." The entire regiment was killed in the first days of the campaign, however they achieved their purpose and held on long enough for reinforcements to arrive. Out of respect, there is no 57th Regiment in the modern Turkish Army.

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The 57th Regiment Memorial

The Nek was the famous battle on the 7th of May 1915 where the Australian Light Horse Brigade were ordered over the top against an entrenched line of Turkish machine guns. The actual battlefield is a thin ridge about 80 metres across and the trenches were only about 25 metres apart. The attack was part of an coordinated assault but it relied on the New Zealanders having taken Chunuk Bair (which they did not manage until a day later) and attacking the Turkish position from behind. Despite it being known that the Kiwis were not in position to support them, the attack was ordered ahead anyway – with disastrous results. It was an earie feeling, standing on such a small, thin patch of ground where so many men died for no good reason, which in a way, could be said for the entire Gallipoli Peninsula.

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After reflecting for a while at the sites along the way, we arrived at Chunuk Bair at about 10.00am to claim one of the last remaining seats for the 12.30 service. Obviously we are biased – but for us, the NZ service was the highlight of the day. The NZ Airforce band entertained the crowd for about two hours before the service and had everyone clapping along to songs like Colonel Bogey's March from the movie Bridge Over the River Kwai (Google it – you know the tune...) It was a sombre, but laid back service and we both found it incredibly moving. After the service we laid our poppies at the base of the memorial – they were two of the last Anzac poppies handmade by NZ RSA veterans and their families (they are now made in China) and we had been given them by Rob's mum especially for the service.

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The NZ Memorial at Chunuk Bair - The statue in the background is Mustafa Kemal

We jostled our way back to the bus and miraculously, our bus was one of the first to leave. We managed to get back to Canakkale by about 4.00pm. We saw buses still coming off the ferry on our way to dinner several hours later!! We had an amazing time on Gallipoli and would recommend the pilgrammage to anyone without hesitation.

Posted by RobandEve 02:04 Archived in Turkey Comments (3)

Cyprus

Which came first: The country or the tree?

Cyprus was kind of a last minute decision – due to the unrest in Egypt, and as opposed to going to Turkey a week early, we decided on a little detour via the "year round island"... Cyprus has a bit of a reputation as being a party destination, and its not hard to see why. Immigration stamped our passports without even looking up and Customs didn't even bother turning the x-ray machine on. Schappelle would have been laughing! Oh, and a pint costs less than five bucks.

We managed to find a cheap, simple little apartment in Pervolia for the week and spent the first couple of days just relaxing and meandering around the village. It seems as though this is a popular semi-retirement spot for Brits, who come and open up tavernas to take advantage of the 300-odd days of sunshine a year, and take money off the hoards of tourists who flock here every summer.

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Pervolia Village Centre

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At the Pervolia Fort

On the Saturday we caught a bus to Larnaca for a wander around. We walked along the beach front and found a cafe which, quite by chance, was giving away free cheese pies with every coffee so lunch was sorted. Next we found the local farmer's market and a wine shop so dinner was also sorted. We did have some issues finding the right bus stop, and arrived shortly after our bus left so we ended up waiting over an hour for the next bus. On the Sunday we decided to hire a car because of the lack of a reliable public transport system (sorry Kent...) and went exploring the island properly.

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Some amusing graffiti from Larnaca

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The candy shop at the market - We can recommend the honey cashews!!

Our rental car was dropped off early Sunday morning and we drove out to the Akamas Peninsula and had a great mezze lunch at Polis, a little hamlet recommended to us by a German woman we met at Pervolia. We checked out the Baths of Aphrodite in the north-west before driving back through Pegeia and doing a quick nature walk through the Avakas Gorge.

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Don't touch the Military debris...

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All aboard the Asbestos bus!

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Avakas Gorge

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Magpies catching a ride on a goat

On the way back from the gorge, we detoured around the coast to the Birthplace of Aphrodite, a large rock formation on the southern coast of Cyprus...

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Birthplace of Aphrodite

The following day we decided to be a bit more adventurous and drove through Lefkosia into the Turkish Occupied Zone – Known to Turks and Uzbekestanians (the only countries that recognise it) as the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus... Its still a bit of a sore point with the Greeks and Southern Cypriots since the Turks snuck in and set up camp in 1974. The first thing we saw as we drove over the border was a massive Turkish flag on the side of the hill in front of us, as if they still needed to prove that they are there to stay.

At the border crossing Eve grabbed a couple of tourist brochures on Northern Cyprus. The usefulness of the brochures was totally lost in the translation from Turkish except for the suggestion to visit to the Karpasia Peninsula to see some feral donkeys – Unmissable!

We drove north through the mountains and up to St Hilarion Castle overlooking Keryneia/Girne on the northern coast. The castle is awesome and is supposed to have been the inspiration for the castle in Snow White and the Walt Disney logo. We climbed to the highest room in the highest tower to look out over the valley and enjoy the view, which was accompanied every couple of seconds with the crack of high calibre rifle fire from the practise range at the Turkish army base in the valley below... Ahh, the serenity.

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View from Prince John's tower, the rifle range is in the background

We ventured further through the Keryneia mountains and found the Buffavento Castle, which along with St Hilarion and Kantara, formed an important defensive network in the 15th Century. Apparently it was not working so well in 1974... The road to Buffavento was basically a goat track which made for slow going in our gutless wonder rental. We got about halfway there before deciding to abandon the attempt – thank goodness for telephoto lenses!

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Buffavento Castle

We had a late, but amazing, lunch at the Buffavento Restaurant before heading off towards Famagusta and the resort town of Agia Napa. As we were fast running out of daylight, we decided to give the Karpasia Peninsula and the feral donkeys a miss so, alas, no photo of a man with a donkey :(

After getting hopelessly lost in Famagusta we eventually found the border, before getting hopelessly lost trying to find Agia Napa for a sunset cocktail... When we (eventually) got there, we saw that Lonely Planet's description of Agia Napa is pretty much spot on when it describes it as "legions of lobster-red Brits wandering around with a can of lukewarm Foster's in tow." This being the shoulder season was bad enough – I can image how horrible it becomes during peak times. The beaches are crap as well. We sculled our much-needed drinks as fast as possible and left Agia Napa in our dust, vowing never to return.

Our last full day in Cyprus we took a leisurely drive through the mountainous centre, the Troodhos Massif (not that massive). On the way to the Troodhos, we stopped off and checked out the ancient city of Kourion (now in ruins) which was quite impressive, and commanded an amazing view of the countryside back to the Mediterranean.

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As we made our way up into the mountains the landscape was incredible. It changed as we got higher, from green and white terraced vineyards and fields, to red clay and a Cypress forest towards the summit of Mount Olympus (1951m). Unfortunately there is a large military installation at the true summit of the mountain, but we got as close as we could to it without risking being shot. On the other side of the mountain, the cherry blossoms were in bloom and at Pedoulas we found the spectacular Church of the Archangel

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Archangelos

Back in Pervolia, we treated oursleves to a dinner at a local taverna, which by pure coincidence happened to be the local bingo night. I use the term "local" very loosely as it sounded as though everyone there was speaking Cockney. We played a couple of boards of Bingo before it was announced that this was also the monthly quiz night. Our quiet, early night before our 5.30am flight was not looking too promising at this point. Needless to say, we played the quiz but really suffered for not having been born in the UK in the 1950s. After a couple of complimentary ouzos we decided to call it a night. We said goodnight to the Easter Bunny on the way (Rob's photo with the Easter Bunny cannot be shown on this blog due to rating issues... but Eve's can)

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Happy Easter!

Posted by RobandEve 11:16 Archived in Cyprus Comments (1)

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